Climbers' Club Direct Top 50

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Fruitflancase < Gideon  |  C.C. Ordinary > Needle Arete >>


One for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and the skin off knuckles) over the years.
1) 5a. Start beneath the obvious hand jamming crack that cuts through the low overhang. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to an overhanging short corner. Climb to the overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.
2) 4c. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top and pull out right.Climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish.
FA. R.Hodgkin 1936

USER COMMENTS

One of the best jamming pitches in the UK!

Chris
Chris Craggs - 02/Jul/05

This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome!
Mark Collins - 22/Aug/05

You don't have to take the initial crack direct via an 'all or nothing' jamming approach. Technique, footwork & a little laybacking works wonders to get estabished in the crack and you need to jam. It's a good test of how technically proficient you really are at 5a.
Tim Dennell - 17/May/06

Was strenuous, but careful footwork meant it wasn't quite as pumpy as it could have been (thankfully). The "wild finish" does seem a little tricky for 4c though!
Jay Jackson - 06/Jun/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard E1 0 of 5
    E1 0 of 5
    easy E1 0 of 5
    hard HVS 1 of 5
    HVS 4 of 5
    easy HVS 0 of 5
    hard VS 0 of 5
    VS 0 of 5
    easy VS 0 of 5
    hard 5b 0 of 5
    5b 0 of 5
    easy 5b 0 of 5
    hard 5a 1 of 5
    5a 4 of 5
    easy 5a 0 of 5
    hard 4c 0 of 5
    4c 0 of 5
    easy 4c 0 of 5
    3 Stars 6 of 6
    2 Stars 0 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.