Climbers' Club Direct Top 50

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
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Magnificent, and one for the jamming master. A forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps (and skinned a few knuckles) over the years. One of the best HVSs in the area. Start beneath the hand-crack that cuts through the low overhang at the base of the face.</br>1) 5a, 23m. Climb the crack strenuously and continue past a sapling to a short, overhanging corner. Climb to an overhang and exit leftwards to a good stance above.</br>2) 4c, 27m. Ascend the wide crack in the V-groove to the overhang at its top. Pull out right and climb the widening crack above direct to a wild finish. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Robin Hodgkin, David Cox 27.9.1936

USER COMMENTS

One of the best jamming pitches in the UK!

Chris
Chris Craggs - 02/Jul/05

This was the first thing I saw on arrival and knew I had to climb it. Being rubbish at jamming I took a 30foot whipper near the top of the upper pitch, awesome!
Mark Collins - 22/Aug/05

You don't have to take the initial crack direct via an 'all or nothing' jamming approach. Technique, footwork & a little laybacking works wonders to get estabished in the crack and you need to jam. It's a good test of how technically proficient you really are at 5a.
Tim Dennell - 17/May/06

Was strenuous, but careful footwork meant it wasn't quite as pumpy as it could have been (thankfully). The "wild finish" does seem a little tricky for 4c though!
Jay Jackson - 06/Jun/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard E1 0 of 6
    E1 0 of 6
    easy E1 0 of 6
    hard HVS 1 of 6
    HVS 5 of 6
    easy HVS 0 of 6
    hard VS 0 of 6
    VS 0 of 6
    easy VS 0 of 6
    hard 5b 0 of 6
    5b 0 of 6
    easy 5b 0 of 6
    hard 5a 1 of 6
    5a 5 of 6
    easy 5a 0 of 6
    hard 4c 0 of 6
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    easy 4c 0 of 6
    3 Stars 6 of 7
    2 Stars 1 of 7
    1 Star 0 of 7
    0 Stars 0 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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