Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 80
Dartmoor's enduring classic gives sustained and engrossing climbing on perfect rock. Start at a short, square-cut pillar below a steep flake-crack.</br>1) 5b, 16m. Climb the short pillar to beneath the bulging and rounded flake-crack. Forceful moves into and up the crack are then followed by a delicate and technical traverse right to a hanging belay on nuts and a tied-off chickenhead.</br>2) 5a, 20m. Traverse a short way rightwards and climb a flake-crack and the insecure drainpipe above to easier, slabby climbing and the summit. Not in current guidebook.
Err why the downgrade?
When I did this a couple of years ago, it was E1.
It still is E1 5b,well it was was July 2005
Don't understand the drips - the 1983 guide gives the route HVS 5a, and the 1999 guide gives it E1 5b. My guess is it's still HVS but 5b might be a better indication of the technicalities of the first pitch.
That should be 1995 guide, apologies!
Steady HVS, good pro all up the first pitch, maybe a 5b move on the traverse. Second pitch slightly insecure feeling climbing up the groove but if you're confident at the grade it'll be a breeze. Do it in two pitches for all the fun of the semi-hanging belay at the flake! (no idea why you'd tie off the chickenhead as there's better anchors there)
Defo HVS. Felt easier than many HVS's to me. Guess it comes down to how you are on cracks / laybacks.
It's HVS 5A. Just watch the barn-door off the first pitch and you're away. Too much upgrading going on these days. It's a Dartmoor HVS and, like a grit HVS - it's bound to be hard!
HVS 5b feels right. The initial thuggy moves are harder than 5a but very safe. Difficulties in the second pitch aren't superbly protectable but they are very short lived.
I'm a wimp. E1 5b.