2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Eye < Declaration  |  The Original Route > Face Climb 1 >>

Climb the groove in the arete to the flat roof then step left to a grasping exit. Fortunately large cams in the final break (hard for the short to place) reduce the stress levels.
FA. Ian Riddington or Keith Sharples 1984


Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice
simon lee - 23/Feb/04

Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent
simon lee - 23/Feb/04

Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down.
andy reeve - 26/Apr/05

I can confirm a fall from the top crux is ok ... ! Despite muffing the onsight, I found this a really great climb. Strenuous.
Chris Parson - 25/Apr/11

The top out isn't the rounded horror show the guidebook makes it sound like. Bomber cam can be placed from a good jam. Good route, low end E3 if you trust the small wire/RP low down.
mark20 - 04/Jul/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard E4 0 of 7
    E4 0 of 7
    easy E4 0 of 7
    hard E3 1 of 7
    E3 4 of 7
    easy E3 1 of 7
    hard E2 1 of 7
    E2 0 of 7
    easy E2 0 of 7
    hard 6a 0 of 7
    6a 0 of 7
    easy 6a 0 of 7
    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 7 of 7
    easy 5c 0 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
    5b 0 of 7
    easy 5b 0 of 7
    3 Stars 0 of 7
    2 Stars 6 of 7
    1 Star 1 of 7
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