Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
12m. Climb the groove in the arete to the flat roof then step left to a grasping, shelving exit. Fortunately large Friends in the final break (hard for the short to place) reduce the stress a little.
Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice
Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent
Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down.
I can confirm a fall from the top crux is ok ... ! Despite muffing the onsight, I found this a really great climb. Strenuous.
The top out isn't the rounded horror show the guidebook makes it sound like. Bomber cam can be placed from a good jam. Good route, low end E3 if you trust the small wire/RP low down.