2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Eye < Declaration  |  The Original Route > Croton Oil >>

12m. Climb the groove in the arete to the flat roof then step left to a grasping, shelving exit. Fortunately large Friends in the final break (hard for the short to place) reduce the stress a little.
FA. Ian Riddington 1984


Desperate to place the large cam off the sloping finishing holds - I had to reverse the crux twice
simon lee - 23/Feb/04

Oh yes - and Keith Sharples did the first ascent
simon lee - 23/Feb/04

Didn't place the final cam (didn't take one large enough) but the moves aren't that bad once you're at that break anyway so just pushed onwards, would have been a long fall but probably easier overall (even taking the added boldness into account) than placing the cam would have been. Nice moves, particularly lower down.
andy reeve - 26/Apr/05

I can confirm a fall from the top crux is ok ... ! Despite muffing the onsight, I found this a really great climb. Strenuous.
Chris Parson - 25/Apr/11

The top out isn't the rounded horror show the guidebook makes it sound like. Bomber cam can be placed from a good jam. Good route, low end E3 if you trust the small wire/RP low down.
mark20 - 04/Jul/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard E4 0 of 7
    E4 0 of 7
    easy E4 0 of 7
    hard E3 1 of 7
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    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 7 of 7
    easy 5c 0 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
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