Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
24m. The classic of the crag with superb sustained climbing and just enough gear. High in the grade. Start up the thin cracks three metres right of the square hole. Step right when the going gets tough and move up to a ledge. Finish more easily above.
Slab climbing at its very best. After the first gear, the climbing is runout, sustained 5c for the next 20 foot or so, with the psychological and technical crux move moving up and right to a completely bomber nut slot, which you will be delighted to see. The holds are small but all very positive, so that it never really feels desparate. From the bomber slot the climbing is continously interesting and well-protected, with a steep but easy finish. A magnificent route.
yes very good route indeed
An excellent route that is considerably more feasible than it looks from below - best climbed before it gets chalked! Mild for the grade with brass offsets, even without it wouldn't be too bad - just one rather bold rockover just where the gear isn't. Unsustained in climbing but definitely sustained in quality.
Agreed, best done without the route being chalked up...a fine and absorbing experience!