Oliver

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Cabbage Crack < Jasper  |  Millionaire Touch > The Heat >>


One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if it doesn't feel like it. Save it for the lead instead of top-roping it. Follow the elegant groove to the roof, then move left and climb the tricky wall to a break (pumpy-to-place gear and scary position). Step right and stand in the break (baffling for some) then climb the still awkward upper wall. Wonderful.
FA. Geoff Birtles 1979. Lost holds in the 1980s.

USER COMMENTS

Great route, more bold and sustained than technical - E4 5c
Steve - 21/Feb/02

Too reliant on one small gear placement as I recall for E4
sharkey - 17/May/02

Step right and 'stand in the break' severely understates this tricky move. Use layaway just above break to face right, bring up feet onto small holds on the wall below the break and rock over to a small hold (with left hand)high and slightly right
Colin Hughes - 27/Jul/02

Harder than Right wall !
S. Cundy - 16/Aug/02

Quite hard for E4 but not any harder. Brilliant though, being alternately bold and technical.
Jez Portman - 01/Jul/03

Solid E4 with a bold blast followed by a safe, trick move. Solid gear if you look and don't panic (easily said when you've done it many times!)As it says, wonderful.
Ian M - 26/Jun/04

Did 2nds or 3rd ascent of this as training for Right Wall and found RW a path in comparison.
John Kirk - 04/Oct/05

Certainly a grade harder than Cabbage Crack, possibly (dare I suggest) worth low end E5?
Graham Hoey - 19/May/06

Beta Alert!!!

Bomber RP2 left of the jug in the middle of the 'runout'.
Graham Hoey - 24/May/06

There is a micro, but I reckon most would be better off yarding for the break and saving some puff to place the bomber...
Ian Milward - 27/Jun/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
    hard E5 0 of 13
    E5 0 of 13
    easy E5 0 of 13
    hard E4 0 of 13
    E4 13 of 13
    easy E4 0 of 13
    hard E3 0 of 13
    E3 0 of 13
    easy E3 0 of 13
    hard 6b 0 of 14
    6b 0 of 14
    easy 6b 1 of 14
    hard 6a 6 of 14
    6a 5 of 14
    easy 6a 1 of 14
    hard 5c 1 of 14
    5c 0 of 14
    easy 5c 0 of 14
    3 Stars 10 of 12
    2 Stars 2 of 12
    1 Star 0 of 12
    0 Stars 0 of 12
    Bag of ..... 0 of 12

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