Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
One of the best routes at Stoney, with a great variety of bold and strenuous moves, and enough gear to make it safe - even if it doesn't feel like it. Save it for the lead instead of top-roping it. Follow the elegant groove to the roof, then move left and climb the tricky wall to a break (pumpy-to-place gear and scary position). Step right and stand in the break (baffling for some) then climb the still awkward upper wall. Wonderful.
Great route, more bold and sustained than technical - E4 5c
Too reliant on one small gear placement as I recall for E4
Step right and 'stand in the break' severely understates this tricky move. Use layaway just above break to face right, bring up feet onto small holds on the wall below the break and rock over to a small hold (with left hand)high and slightly right
Harder than Right wall !
Quite hard for E4 but not any harder. Brilliant though, being alternately bold and technical.
Solid E4 with a bold blast followed by a safe, trick move. Solid gear if you look and don't panic (easily said when you've done it many times!)As it says, wonderful.
Did 2nds or 3rd ascent of this as training for Right Wall and found RW a path in comparison.
Certainly a grade harder than Cabbage Crack, possibly (dare I suggest) worth low end E5?
There is a micro, but I reckon most would be better off yarding for the break and saving some puff to place the bomber...