Croton Oil Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Angst < The Original Route  |  Only Human > The Spiral Route >>


20m. A great classic, possibly the best on the edge, featuring fine climbing and good protection throughout. From the centre of the south face climb a wide crack (often damp) then the wall trending left via a series of hidden finger cracks (good wires) to reach the Notch. Finish up the 'rickety-flake' with care.
FA. Pete Crew 1963

USER COMMENTS

An essential grit route, just take time out to enjoy the summit experience.
Bob Dulieu - 30/Jun/03

Definately worth the 3 stars, best route i've done this year. Not particularly hard for the grade, just great climbing. and at 20m a long one for the Peaks.
Darren Burrows - 18/Jul/03

I found this route very committing and nearly lost my balance a number of times. A great route with a great belay position.
Huw - 17/Nov/03

Fantastic slabby climbing in a wonderful position. Don't pull too hard on the flake at the top and you certainly don't want to fall on it.
Mike McEwen - 24/May/04

Top top top route !! Quite technical and balancy on the main section but angle okay enough to hang around and solve the route's riddles. Technically I thought nearer 5b than 5a....
Nick W - 01/Nov/04

The rickety flake sounds and feels very fragile, considerable care required (or someone needs to prise it off)
Tyler - 10/Nov/04

Great route. Very technical with a lot of balancy 'working out' of moves whilst below or level with good gear. Worth sorting out some pro before the final push to the top from the ledge
mat_galvin - 17/Jan/05

Did this in awful conditions a few weeks ago, a fantastic climb nonetheless! Better not to put gear behind that flake otherwise it will come off with you!
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

i was surprised at how balancy this route was. another rivlin hvs classic
leon - 30/Jul/05

Awesome route!
Craig - 31/Jul/05

Fabulous route. Finally led it this year after following it several times. Startled by a lot of hissing from indignant creature (baby bird? I couldn't see) deep in the crack leading to the ledge.
JohnHutch - 03/Oct/05

first hvs found it very balancy like most and as i streatched left for the flake had to let go with my right hand. when on the lower ledge thrust gear into the back in a spot of panic which is not a good place to put it
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

very good - sustained, varied climbing, the flake seems fine and there is anyway no need to place gear behind it as the crack to the right takes good runners and isnt connected.
ksjs - 29/Sep/08

Absorbing climbing, especially once you get onto the main section, loved it! As others have said, you can get great runners in the shallow crack to the right of the oh-so hollow flake. Bomber protection all the way really, thought it was a good early HVS route personally.
jeffsheard - 02/Sep/09

just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as froggs. valkyrie but the views are delightful especially on a crisp day in febuary.One of peaks best HVS's
chris davies - 09/Jan/12

Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks. A must for anybody taking a trip to Rivelin.
Clovehitch131 - 29/Jan/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 318
    hard E1 0 of 106
    E1 0 of 106
    easy E1 0 of 106
    hard HVS 4 of 106
    HVS 89 of 106
    easy HVS 11 of 106
    hard VS 2 of 106
    VS 0 of 106
    easy VS 0 of 106
    hard 5b 0 of 104
    5b 0 of 104
    easy 5b 0 of 104
    hard 5a 12 of 104
    5a 80 of 104
    easy 5a 12 of 104
    hard 4c 0 of 104
    4c 0 of 104
    easy 4c 0 of 104
    3 Stars 105 of 108
    2 Stars 3 of 108
    1 Star 0 of 108
    0 Stars 0 of 108
    Bag of ..... 0 of 108

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