The Big Fat Texan on the CornerRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 45
Adjacent Routes
The centre of the wall left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct, but now holds on the right are used. Climbed from Austin Powers gives a good 6b variation. USER COMMENTS
Thouroughly enjoyable jug-fest
The direct version is better and hard 6a+. I feel this should be mentioned.
Done this several times and find the crux move is a little bold and quite strenuous ( not to mention polished). Definitely 6A
Tried the direct version after doing the original route. It may be something to do with the way the route has 'weathered' up but just getting onto the direct version now seems very artificial especially with the new route to the left. Actually starting up Austin Powers and then moving right into Texan might provide a reasonable version of the direct on Texan.
Did the link Alan talked about at the start of August and have to agree. Good 1 star 6b and more sustained than the original direct version.
The name 'Austin, Texas' springs to mind.
Did this the same week as the first ascent of Austin Powers.
Bet you did Gary!!
Its not one I would be proud of!!
Some awkward bolt possitions, good moves though.
excellent moves on great holds that keep coming. 6a is fair, but it felt very intimidating to me, go for it and the holds all appear. Nice.
Did the Austin Powers variation to avoid the holds on the right, quite sustained climbing
Second time I've done it and it seems a bit harder than 6a (unless you wander right, almost into 'Sumo' territory) at the crux. Once you're into the flakes and side pulls it's a laugh.
pulled large hold off when clipping last bolt, and took a massive fall, wooo to air time :)
Badly bolted both in spacing and position. Climbing is okay though.
I'd say at least 6a+, intriguing climb but badly bolted. |