Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
Start direct (hard) or come in from the left. The finish is easier than it once was, but is still no pushover.
This is not a sport route! E5 6b would be a better grade.
It's an airy sports route. There is no other gear needed and the route keeps some of its original 'space'
Now more bits have been pulled off the start, it is probably 7b, leading this with a trad approach is suicidal.
The start hasn't changed. I was there on sunday and there is no change - I should know I have done it about half a dozen times. You swing in from the left via a good flake on Shot Yer Bolt and do a cross over. It is not done direct and was chipped earlier in the year in an attempt to do just that.
Well you perhaps do the easy start, but I have done it dirrect, without the chipped hold, and was told by somebody who has pulled a hold off, before the first clip.
And the top section just got harder - pancake sized flake / block came off at the start of the upper crux section - and me with it! At least 7b now I would have thought....
did this route today-unsure of where the top moves go-we went direct just right of clip using crimps and right layway. Grade ??