Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
Follow the corner then traverse the wall rightwards (pegs/bolts) to a lower-off. The direct finish up the groove is easier (E1 5b), but less enjoyable. With a few wires it feels about 6a+.
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This route is spoilt by the lower off at the top of Running Man (the chain is far too long). The finish was a good and scary move until the chain appeared and the finish lost its level of commitment
Don't know about the low chain but if you are tall it is very easy for E3, felt like E1 so I'll compromise at E2.
not E3 and not E1 so definately E2, the chain aint there anymore so its a m assive reach to the lower off
The chain wasn't there when it was first done. It was added for Running Man.
I agree. Spoilt by the lower off and by the bolt. I decided not to clip it as it would have involved climbing slightly off route which made reaching the peg just before the lower off fairly exciting. Where has the other peg gone. Harder than E1 due to the run out but its easy climbing so E2 sounds fair.
Yes, shame about the bolts, which we reckon reduce Androids from E2 to E1. (Of course you don't have to clip them...)
The route now contains 2 bolts and a lower off, but no pegs. The first bolt is quite awkward to clip and could easily be avoided by purists, but does protect the crux.
Has anyone done my direct finish up the groove with 2 bolts to a new lower off.
Yes John, Tony Payne did the direct finish yesterday while you were there.
Pretty much fully bolted at the top now, but you still need wires for the lower groove. It's a shame really, but some good moves on nice rock at the top so probably worth F6a+*