Sabotørfossen Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 WI 5

Adjacent Routes
<< Nye Vemorkfoss < Tanja  |  Ronita > Der Graue >>


Three pitches. A genuine classic of the area. The first pitch follows a slab to a belay under a little overhang. The second pitch is partly hidden from below. Continue up and to the left, following a chimney with some old scrap metal inside. Early in the season it can be a good idea to bring some rock protection on this pitch. Belay below the steep third pitch, which is normally best taken on the right. To reach the best belay a 60m rope is needed.
FA. Jan Stenstrøm, Torbjørn Ohlèn, Tommy Schultz 1993

USER COMMENTS

excellent route, very exposed (and very exciting!?) up the final pillar. this was given Scottish VI when we did it and it certainly felt harder than the other stuff we did that's graded WI5 in this guide.
ian bryant - 23/Nov/05

Great Route. 1st pitch contains lots of circlar wire sticking out of the ice...so you can 'clip n' go'! 2nd pitch winds its way up through the chimney followed by a short vertical pitch. Last pitch was superb...a little exposed but solid. We did the climb in mid Jan and thought the route similar in feel to point 5 on the Ben...ie a touch easy for WI5 although the ice was fat (I would have given WI4+ / scottish 5)
Nick Underhill-Day - 19/Aug/06

Few years since I climbed this, but can echo the comments above. Good conditions on the day I did it- WI4/5
ander - 09/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard WI 6 0 of 7
    WI 6 0 of 7
    easy WI 6 0 of 7
    hard WI 5 3 of 7
    WI 5 2 of 7
    easy WI 5 0 of 7
    hard WI 4 2 of 7
    WI 4 0 of 7
    easy WI 4 0 of 7
    3 Stars 6 of 6
    2 Stars 0 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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