| WI 6|
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Four or five pitches. The huge pillar which is easily seen from the road above the gorge. Start in a chimney with a small ice wall and continue on snow to a belay. There are two options:
1) Follow very thin ice over slabby rock to gain the bottom of the big pillar. This pitch can be very difficult to protect and sees variable conditions from season to season.
2) Follow the snow chimney to the top and climb mixed ground over to the pillar. Follow the pillar in two pitches (or one long one). Because of the steepness the pillar often has challenging ice conditions.
Descent - If the snow is deep, abseil back to the gorge base. In less snow, continue to the road at the top.
FA. Jon Haukåssveen, Jan Stenstrøm, Bjørge Lie 1993
Nice route, conditions define how hard or serious undertaking you are facing. done it twice in two concecutive years, and it was not a same climb second time: much much easier, much better gear etc.
routsi - 22/Jan/06
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