| WI 7|
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Four pitches. At the very end of the gorge, inside a huge groove, you will find this World classic. Start inside the groove (sometimes mixed) and climb as high as you can on thin ice to a belay under a roof. Traverse out right and gain the pillar (bring a Friend 2 for protection in the roof) and do some acrobatic moves to get established on the ice. Continue to the next roof for a belay. Continue through this roof to the top. Lipton should be considered as a serious climb and aspiring climbers should consider conditions carefully. The first pillar usually falls down at least twice each winter. Photo page 50.
FA. Carlos Wagner, Franz Fischer 1995