Rjukanfossen Top 50

3 Stars
Death
 WI 4

Adjacent Routes
<< Lipton Direct < Das Fenster  |  Juledagsfossen > By the Way >>


Three pitches. A classic waterfall that is also an important historical ascent in Rjukan. However, the waterfall is an overflow for the power plants in the area which means that it can be flooded at any time without warning. For this reason we cannot recommend an ascent of this route. The first pitch follows wide and good ice. Usually the best belay can be found to the left. Continue up the second pitch on increasingly narrow ice to a belay inside a cave. Continue up the ice wall at the back of the cave and branch out left onto an icy slab. Follow this slab to a low-angled chimney and climb out of the chimney on the left (thin or no ice) when you reach the chockstone (a Friend 3 is useful here).
FA. Bjørn Myrer Lund, Marius Morstad 1978

USER COMMENTS

excellent route and worth going into the amphitheatre even if you don't want to climb there as it is stunning.
reasonably hard for the grade when you come onto the icy slab but otherwise straightforward.
DO IT!
ian bryant - 23/Nov/05

A brilliant route in tremendous surroundings. Well worth doing with main difficulties surmounting the chockstone when conditions are lean - as at end of March 2006.
Derek Buckle - 31/Mar/06

Totally agree with previous posters. The setting is amazing and the route is more than well worth doing. Main difficulties 20th january was the clearing of snow and somewhat thin ice and unnerving waterflow, not too bad though. There is an old sling at the chockstone. We climbed the two first pitches in one with a 70m rope.
Daniel - 02/Feb/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard WI 5 0 of 4
    WI 5 0 of 4
    easy WI 5 0 of 4
    hard WI 4 0 of 4
    WI 4 4 of 4
    easy WI 4 0 of 4
    hard WI 3 0 of 4
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