Bolgen Top 50

3 Stars
 WI 3

Adjacent Routes
<< Sjeldenheten < To Menn og et Foster  |  Plaster pa Saret > Isfest >>


Four pitches. The classic of the area. Bolgen is easy to spot from the road despite the fact that the 3rd pitch is hidden by rock. The first pitch offers sustained (and good) ice to a belay on the right. The second pitch goes up to the point where the waterfall narrows. The third pitch is quite easy and this pitch can be stretched with a mobile belay, saving you one pitch. Follow two pillars to the top. Walk off to the right (west) and abseil from the trees.
FA. Jon Haukassveen, Halvard Arntzen 1994

USER COMMENTS

4 Pitches is a bit of an underestimation! - We ran out about 6 on a 60m rope.....
Jim - 08/Feb/06

I have been going to Rjukan for the past four years and compared to the old guide, that you could down load, I found the new book excellent for locating routes. A lot of the routes have been down graded, this I do not have a problem with, but reducing the number of pitches on a route can be misleading. The old guide gives Bolgen as six pitches at grade four. Rockfax guide give it four pitches at grade three. I have done this route on a number of occasions with different people and grade three would be about correct, but it is definitely six pitches not four. During our stay in Rjukan our accommodation was opposite Bolgen area and we noticed a lot of teams descending from Bolgen by head torch, as late as ten in the evening. This could be quite dangerous especially if their ropes were to become stuck on the trees during the difficult decent.
Ian Atkinson - 02/Mar/06

Four pitches and WI 3 is an underestimation in my opinion. More like six - seven and WI 4.
I led the whole route and was constantly psyched out by wondering just what pitch was what (using the new guidebook).
If you forget the guidebook description and take belays on the comfortable (and obvious)ledges before the major steepenings it's fantastic and 50M ropes are fine. Just remember, this one has a big feel to it - so give yourself plenty of time.
The forest below the route is NOT very friendly in the dark.
john Dale - 04/Mar/06

Agree with the above - 6-7 pitches and very sustained for a straight 3 - I would give it hard 3/easy 4 . Loads of places to belay on nice ledges with trees. Start early to avoid a torchlight abseil and nasty stumble through the boulderfield and trees. definately a 3 star classic, but dont underestimate it.
P.S. Its probably worth carrying a small rack of wires as there are a good few placements to suopplement screws and slings round trees.
David Hooper - 05/Apr/06

We climbed Bolgen on 21/1/08 and ran out 2 long 60m pitches to an overhang on the R. a small pine tree was convenient to ab off. Others on the route had gone further and retreated due to deep snow and shortage of time. It certainly goes another two pitches above where we left it and they would be long ones.
Robert Kincaid - 27/Jan/08

Nice route,not sustained at the grade. The upper part is not of the same quality. The Guide book descent in deep snow could take time. An abseil descent is in place from the stance at the top of the best section which drops down in 2 60m abs to the foot of the route (on the left looking down) The line of the ab is always to the left of the climbing.
Dave
david smith - 26/Jul/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard WI 4 0 of 5
    WI 4 0 of 5
    easy WI 4 1 of 5
    hard WI 3 2 of 5
    WI 3 2 of 5
    easy WI 3 0 of 5
    hard WI 2 0 of 5
    WI 2 0 of 5
    easy WI 2 0 of 5
    3 Stars 4 of 4
    2 Stars 0 of 4
    1 Star 0 of 4
    0 Stars 0 of 4
    Bag of ..... 0 of 4

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.