Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
Popular and good. The fingery face leads straight up to a flake and a thought-provoking finish. Lots of bolts and quite a few tricky moves too. Stick to the line to claim the grade.
The bolts are very rusty prob need replacing!!!.
Well go and replace them then.
I dont own a Drill !!
Send me a cheque for £25 and I'll do it for you!
Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added.
A good route, but following the line of bolts strictly is a lot harder than 7a+, I moved quite far right to get to the roof - going direct is desperate and much harder than the other 7a+s at this crag which all felt easy by comparison. Probably 7b moving right and harder again if you slavishly follow the bolts.
Was always given 7b for the direct to the flake. Don't know why it was changed. 7b in the BMC guide.
nails (and IMHO very definitely not 7a+) if you go direct to flake: 7b (and i imagine a hard onsight at the grade) if you do. absolutely brilliant though with sustained climbing and good moves throughout. refreshingly, well-bolted. recommended.
Totally direct (the only way I noticed at the time) this would be the hardest 7b I've been on, 7b+ by any other standards, a grade harder than something like Sardine, being a very easy 7b+. From what others say, there seem to be ways of avoiding the crux, but the routes here are crammed in and you'd have to be on a different line to avoid any of the moves. Total sandbag at 7a+.
Has certainly lost holds on the crux since I first did this. Now solid 7b, but no harder. Not harder than Sardine, unless you do the modern de-tour on Sardine which skips the crux and is only 7b anyway.
All the gear on main wall seemed in good condition as of yesterday - we tested just about every bolt on this one!!