Easy Picking

1 Stars
Technical
 E2 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Shelf Wall < Birth of Venus  |  Oliver's Twist > The Terminator >>


8m. The thin crack left of the corner has a desperate start - on the left is slightly easier. Above, even more desperate moves lead to reach the wider upper section.
FA. Steve Bancroft 1976

USER COMMENTS

hard. the upper crack is easier but also easy to pump out on. remember to take some gear for it.
nick v - 06/Jul/03

E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.
Steve Ramsden - 23/Jun/06

But E2 6a/b is the right grade as it tells you its a well protected crux early on with easier climbing above. Using the above argument you would give it E5!
Andrew Mackintosh - 06/Nov/06

Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
Fiend - 15/Mar/07

Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
Jus - 18/Mar/07

Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
Tom - 21/Apr/07

probably E3 to onsite, but it'll give more people a good challenge at E2. i thoiught the moves leaving the good flake were harder. move quickly on the upper crack!
luke - 06/Nov/08

Great little route, full on E2!
mark20 - 29/Oct/11

I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the lead), but the difficulty of the rest of the route make this a bit too hard for E2. Probably the most pumped I have ever been and not fallen off.
Jon Stewart - 06/Nov/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 53
    hard E3 0 of 17
    E3 1 of 17
    easy E3 2 of 17
    hard E2 7 of 17
    E2 7 of 17
    easy E2 0 of 17
    hard E1 0 of 17
    E1 0 of 17
    easy E1 0 of 17
    hard 6c 0 of 21
    6c 0 of 21
    easy 6c 0 of 21
    hard 6b 1 of 21
    6b 9 of 21
    easy 6b 5 of 21
    hard 6a 6 of 21
    6a 0 of 21
    easy 6a 0 of 21
    3 Stars 1 of 15
    2 Stars 7 of 15
    1 Star 7 of 15
    0 Stars 0 of 15
    Bag of ..... 0 of 15

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