Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 53
The thin crack splitting the wall has a desperate start and even more desperate moves to reach the wider upper section. The start is a good V4 6B.
hard. the upper crack is easier but also easy to pump out on. remember to take some gear for it.
E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.
But E2 6a/b is the right grade as it tells you its a well protected crux early on with easier climbing above. Using the above argument you would give it E5!
Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
probably E3 to onsite, but it'll give more people a good challenge at E2. i thoiught the moves leaving the good flake were harder. move quickly on the upper crack!
Great little route, full on E2!
I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the lead), but the difficulty of the rest of the route make this a bit too hard for E2. Probably the most pumped I have ever been and not fallen off.