Sirplum Top 50

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Spider < Sloe Gin  |  The Plumb-line Finish > The Defector >>

One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one technical move at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your Prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove then amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. Good gear mostly, although the effort of fixing the monster thread under the roof is probably not worth expending unless you are REALLY scared.
The Plumb-line Finish, E1 5b - From the big thread, pull through the small roof above and finish direct into the jungle. A good alternative.
The Defector, E2 5c - Another worthwhile variation up the crack and over the roof above the pedestal - beware of loose rock.
FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown (aid) 1964. FFA. Unknown
FA. (Plumbline Finish) Al Evans, Geoff Birtles 1976
FA. (The Defector) M Warwick, D Beaver 1979

USER COMMENTS

First pitch probably worth 5a.
Roger Whetton - 23/Jul/00

A superb route which any HVS leader should aspire to take on. The first pitch has its moments but the second is where the real action is. A couple of stiff moves from the mid height ledge put you on the obvious break which happily swallows gear - follow the break out over the overhangs into the edge of nowhere (and for many the edge of sanity), soak up probably the most exposed E1 in the peak and then make a tricky move into the groove which is followed to the top of the crag. Excellent!
Rick Davies - 09/Oct/02

Somewhat exposed. Wedging oneself in between the 3 fangs right on the edge of nowhere provides a no-hands rest of above-average character. However the rock is decidedly dubious for a 3 star route - just WHAT is holding the big pillar on?!
Fiend - 22/Aug/03

Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short)
mark s davies - 03/Sep/03

SUPERB.....totally brilliant; probably the best route in the British Isles I've done
Simon Ash - 29/Apr/04

i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun.
Adam Moroz - 08/Dec/04

What a hero
Adam Lincoln - 08/Dec/04

A pleasant potter indeed!
Mr Brikby - 09/Dec/04

So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way.
Paul Winder - 03/May/05

monster monster. 4 stars.
Scouse D - 24/May/05

4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short.
John Alcock - 31/May/05

Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old.
Paul Evans - 09/Aug/06

An amazing, unusual route. 4 star 2nd pitch, pity about the first.
william Oliver Hill - 15/Jun/08

Needs a loose symbol. Some very snappy looking holds on the steep pull off the belay ledge. Lots of dubious looking rock...
Dave Johnson - 01/Jun/09

Well one of the best climbs I ever done pumpy but keep going and you soon be at the top with one hell of a smile !! The pegs are all good and take some of the stress away ...
justin barker - 25/Jul/10

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 107
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