| E6 6b|
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A superb hard route which is well protected by pegs and bolts.
1) -, 10m. Climb Sirplum to a hanging belay in a scoop.
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the break (not as easy as it looks). Then reach out to holds on the lip, whilst trying to keep your feet on the rock. Swing around onto the face above and pull up flakes to reach the break. Traverse left to a big thread belay.
3) 6a, 18m. Pull out right and then climb direct to reach the final groove on Sirplum. Finish up this.
FA. Neil Foster, Rory Gregory 1987. Described by Neil as "Mountaineering in complete safety".