Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
The wider crack of the pair (or both) just right of the main corner gives a couple of good fist-jamming moves to a steep dirty exit. The thin crack on its own is Short but Thick, HVS 5b.
No one mentioned the Holy Bush at the top.
You would need to be pretty myopic to climb just the RH crack and it would be much harder than 4b. The Rockfax description differs from the definitive guide description of using the LH crack.
Agreed, as a competant HVS Leader, just the right hand crack would be way harder, nearer HVS 5b. Beware the wobbly block, not for hands, ok for feet!
Very hard for 4b, even assuming you're following the guide book and doing the LEFT hand crack. Surely 4c
I think HVS 5b is about right. I think you might have your left and right mixed up.