Yellow Desert Scream

3 Stars
Fluttery
 V8 7B+

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Problem 2 > Problem 3 >>


The highball arete climbed on the left with an awkward top-out is a St Bees' classic. Sees many attempts but few successes. Good matting and spotters recommended, though the landing has been improved.

USER COMMENTS

new sequence is unfortunately only about v7 uses low pocket toe hook so it now sees many successes. 3stars
local bumbly - 26/Mar/06

Sounds about right. I haven't done it with the toe hook which sounds like good beta, though I have done it rocking over into the low left pockets, which is a lot easier than my original (spastic!) V8+ sequence putting your foot in the starting hold. Felt like V8 this way so yeah I would guess V7 with a toe hook.

As a general point (not aimed at you bumbly since obviously I don't know how you did it!) the line went direct to top out on small crimps; I have been considering naming the method of topping out using the ledge out left at the top "Yellow Desert Whimper". Although to be fair this is a more obvious sequence too! I was just getting a little hacked by people telling me this problem was piss, when in reality they are doing a far easier version of the original! My fault really though...
Neil Kershaw - 26/Mar/06

topped it out straight up in v damp conditions 1 small pad no spotters, good name for RH variant or "yellow bellied scream".
local bumbly - 26/Mar/06

"Yellow Bellied Scream" - Nice, I like it!
Neil Kershaw - 27/Mar/06

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