Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 49
10m. The centre of the slab has bold moves to the midway break (small Friends) and then turns technical above.
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Mildly bold?? There isn't any gear at all until the midway break, and perhaps one piece higher, near the top. Very scary indeed!
have the guidebook writers actually done this route or just dreampt up the description? the route is totally unprotected to about 30ft (after a thin set of 5c moves) upon where you can just reach rightwards to the long worn slot on the E1. between there and the top is only 1 possible gear placement, and thats a very shit small cam whic can be kicked out easily. E3/4 for sure.
Have led it several times, balancy to the midway break, small cams then more balancy above. Always thought it a couple of grades easier than Brush Off - hence the E2 tag.
Various thin 5c committing moves, protectionless, to a point where it seems gear wont be placed too easily, above a horrendous deck out, E2????
Have read the comments with interest so far; it's bold but not as bold as Brush Off so may be bottom end E3? A bold start lead to a much better protected upper half and I did it on a red hot day having vowed never to go on that slab again.
followed it yesterday - we thought E2 fair though looking at comments soft touch E3 would also be ok
Party Animal seemed very similar to The Brush Off. There is gear eventually, but you earn it with moves at least as hard as anything on the arete above an equally nasty landing. I rate it at E3 5c.
Yea reckon E2 is a bit of a sand bag - considering that really Brush Off, whilst lovely is no more than E3 5b. Landing is worse on this route and not many decent holds so E3 5b seems to fit. Not much of an alternative though sadly!
A line in its own right not an eliminate as earlier guides have suggested, and as such deserves more than 1 star. However if you lost your nerve early on you could 'escape' to Fringe Benefit on the right.
Did this yesterday, and thought E3 for sure. For my money, one decent runner placement in 10m with sustained technical climbing (not many moves under 5a, with most at 5b/c) does not make E2! Comparison with Wall End Slab Direct for example would certainly make this at least E3.
The gear placement at the midway break appeared to me to be on Fringe Benefit. The next pro (very small cam & wire) is in the last break 2m from the top!
Seems very bold for E2 5c...bottled it and ended up on Fringe...
E3 in the new guidebook, spot on. friend half, half way up and a surprisingly good friend 00 above, would hold a fall i think.
The BMC (and now Rockfax) grade of E3 5c is correct. Easy moves in reasonable conditions, the crux perhaps being stretching over to place the bomber cams! Slightly eliminate but good and continually nice climbing.
The hardest climbing (i.e. the top bit) is well-protected. The unprotected start felt like 5b. Whatever the grade, a good route and worth 2 stars.