Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Bolder and harder than the original, and with the same runners. The lower arete has a reachy sequence to the ledge, the upper section eases after initial tricky and precarious moves.
Nice moves to the arete, I think finishing up BE is a better route...
Lower arete then BE excellent, easyish E3 5c (unprotected low crux, great line). Top arete looks OK, but very precarious bouldery moves (6a) 3-4m above gear, with nasty collision with ledge likely if you muff it - given the widely differing grade votes, comments from others who've done it?
Did this as a second the other day. The first 2-3 steps off the ledge are ok (and reversible) but the move to get the good foot involves a tough, tenuous smear. Probably is a 5c move, though a hard one and probably E3 though, again, a hard one. The ledge bounce is a nasty certainty though...
Fair comments, Nick. I must have gone up and down a dozen times before committing to the smeary rock-up, but it felt like 6a on lead (hence E4, given the consequences of a fall).
Right foot out to toe hook a good hold enables hands to be worked up the upper arete to big flat hold. No moves harder than 5c that way and smear's not too tenuous either.