Central Buttress

1 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mantelpiece < Central Chimney  |  Centrepiece > Holly Gully >>


16m. Trend out right to pass the overhang then climb steeply to access the contrasting slab above - interesting. The obvious Direct Start is a gymnastic 6b.
FA. Al Parker 1959 (Direct Start) Gary Gibson 1981

USER COMMENTS

A very fine route, the VS 3 Pebble Slab of Stanage Middle Area. Committing moves through the bulge and up the slab give a satisfying experience.
Fiend - 24/Oct/06

Actually I found this harder than 3 Pebble Slab. Might just have been having a bad day, but it's certainly a lot harder than either Centrepiece or Bolt buttress.
Iain Thow - 21/Mar/07

Obscure but very good! Some tricky and contrasting moves, the bulge followed by the slab...
john evans - 12/May/07

This is not what you might expect from a VS 5a !
GrahamD - 11/Feb/08

Certainly no pushover for the grade
C.E. Moreton - 11/Feb/08

The topo in the latest guide shows the initial traverse being high up, at the first break. But the correct line is an unprotected foot traverse immediately above the initial overhang.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Oct/09

Hardest VS I have ever tried!
Richard - 26/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 20
    hard HVS 0 of 7
    HVS 0 of 7
    easy HVS 3 of 7
    hard VS 1 of 7
    VS 3 of 7
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    hard HS 0 of 7
    HS 0 of 7
    easy HS 0 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
    5b 0 of 7
    easy 5b 0 of 7
    hard 5a 0 of 7
    5a 4 of 7
    easy 5a 0 of 7
    hard 4c 3 of 7
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    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 6 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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