Movie Star

1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pollux < Castor  |  Surprise > Pythagoras >>


8m. Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish.
FA. Colin Banton 1978

USER COMMENTS

The BMC guide gives this E1 5b and if lower arete climbed direct it is definitely much harder then the HVS 5a grade given here (and above a pretty poor landing). I couldn't even second the direct approach (tho it was warm and humid). We both climbed round to right and moved out left onto ledges on the arete from the corner. Doing it this way could be HVS with a still tricky finish
Steve Burns - 11/Jul/10

An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gives it HVS 5a as here. The description given here is a bit vague - maybe say swing onto arete from the right to ledges at 3m. The direct start (swinging onto arete from left?)does look doable but a bit tenuous and landing not too clever.
Steve Burns - 13/Jul/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard HVS 0 of 1
    HVS 0 of 1
    easy HVS 0 of 1
    hard VS 1 of 1
    VS 0 of 1
    easy VS 0 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 1 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    hard 4c 0 of 1
    4c 0 of 1
    easy 4c 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 1 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

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