Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish.
The BMC guide gives this E1 5b and if lower arete climbed direct it is definitely much harder then the HVS 5a grade given here (and above a pretty poor landing). I couldn't even second the direct approach (tho it was warm and humid). We both climbed round to right and moved out left onto ledges on the arete from the corner. Doing it this way could be HVS with a still tricky finish
An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gives it HVS 5a as here. The description given here is a bit vague - maybe say swing onto arete from the right to ledges at 3m. The direct start (swinging onto arete from left?)does look doable but a bit tenuous and landing not too clever.