Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 38
14m. A short fingery wall leads to bulges (large cams) which are tackled leftwards then right using the nostril-like pockets. The right-hand exit is the stretchy Ginger Whinger, E7 7a.
Definately hard for the grade- failed to lead this, took a fall from the top pocket. Gutted.
I didn't think this was hard for the grade at all. Difficult to judge as it was a few years ago but it was my first proper route at the grade. Much easier than the other two big almscliffe E3s!
This (E3 5c) is the correct grade, although it is neither reachy, nor fluttery, nor rounded! Just pull on the good holds. However, it is very nice, finely positioned, and well worthwhile.
Oddly when I did it I thought it was rounded, reachy and a bit scary - so when I wrote the description I based it on that experience!
I fell off it twice in the 1970s before I finally cracked it. I was climbing quite well at the time and shouldn't have fallen off 5c moves - at least not that far above the gear. I therefore deduced it must be 6a - I still think so. At least its a pretty safe, if exhilarating, fall.
Getting the first of the pockets is reachy, I thought. I'm 5'8" (I think...) and reached it only with a good gurn. The moves right were totally unexpected (having not read the description) and where I failed. A fun fall though, with a trusty (and preferably heavy) belayer. Certainly a much easier proposition than the other big E3's...
I held John rope when he made an attempt, he failed to get the top pocket and bailed out. Very impressive climbing to watch.