Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 57
Climb the pleasant shallow groove left of the jutting roof via a short boulder problem sequence. Despite its brevity, it is hard for HVS and hard for 5b!
Quite perplexing near the top, although with some effort reasonable gear placements can be found.
perplexing indeed, gear is indeed good (i tested it), but strenuous to place and be careful not to block up a crucial hold in its entirety.
Short but feisty. Getting out from under the roof and up into the groove was awkward and tiring after several forays out and retreats back under the roof for a shake out. Good gear can be placed in the thin break leading out left from the roof (Equalised a Blue Alien and a Friend 1.0) with a bit of a stretch out left using the last of the jugs. Then once I deciphered the sequence it was a case of commit to the groove and boulder it out to the top. Don't get tunnel vision when you look up the groove, some devious moves, using a less than obvious handhold out left and palming away from the roof bulge then bridging out, get you established. Still not easy though. A superb little crux committing yourself above the gear. It's tricky solid 5b but I'm not sure it's Hard 5b and solid HVS too as your never far from good gear when it matters and it's easy to back off if you haven't committed to the groove. But an excellent little struggle nonetheless.