Groove Route

1 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Renshaw's Remedy < Regular Route  |  Roof Route > The Bush Off >>

Climb the pleasant shallow groove left of the jutting roof via a short boulder problem sequence. Despite its brevity, it is hard for HVS and hard for 5b!
FA. Bill Briggs 1976


Quite perplexing near the top, although with some effort reasonable gear placements can be found.
Nick Smith - 15/Jun/02

perplexing indeed, gear is indeed good (i tested it), but strenuous to place and be careful not to block up a crucial hold in its entirety.
Jon Greengrass - 04/Oct/04

Short but feisty. Getting out from under the roof and up into the groove was awkward and tiring after several forays out and retreats back under the roof for a shake out. Good gear can be placed in the thin break leading out left from the roof (Equalised a Blue Alien and a Friend 1.0) with a bit of a stretch out left using the last of the jugs. Then once I deciphered the sequence it was a case of commit to the groove and boulder it out to the top. Don't get tunnel vision when you look up the groove, some devious moves, using a less than obvious handhold out left and palming away from the roof bulge then bridging out, get you established. Still not easy though. A superb little crux committing yourself above the gear. It's tricky solid 5b but I'm not sure it's Hard 5b and solid HVS too as your never far from good gear when it matters and it's easy to back off if you haven't committed to the groove. But an excellent little struggle nonetheless.
Bonobo - 11/Feb/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 57
    hard E1 0 of 20
    E1 0 of 20
    easy E1 5 of 20
    hard HVS 12 of 20
    HVS 3 of 20
    easy HVS 0 of 20
    hard VS 0 of 20
    VS 0 of 20
    easy VS 0 of 20
    hard 5c 0 of 20
    5c 0 of 20
    easy 5c 1 of 20
    hard 5b 16 of 20
    5b 3 of 20
    easy 5b 0 of 20
    hard 5a 0 of 20
    5a 0 of 20
    easy 5a 0 of 20
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 5 of 17
    1 Star 11 of 17
    0 Stars 1 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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