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85m. (w) a good harder route that sees a lot less attention than the other climbs around here. It gives some great jamming, up a strong line, gritstone and other 'hard-rock' afficianos might wonder at the grade. Bring a good range of cams including a few big ones.
The line is obvious, start down and right of the col, at a cleaner area reached by an exposed scramble!
1) 6, 30m. Traverse right (bolt) and climb the thin crack before moving back left then heading direct to a good stance.
2) 6+, 35m. The thin crack in the steep groove leads to an overhang, power over this and continue to the shoulder.
3) 6+, 20m. Descend left to the foot of a steep crack, climb this, gradually widening, to an action-packed finish.
FA. Ed Webster, Arild Meyer, Odd-Roar Wiik 1993
This is a magnificent climb without a bad pitch on it. 3 very contrasting pitches well worth seeking out.
David Alasdair Toon - 14/Aug/07
Absolutely brillant. Looks impossible, but its quality. A very smart bolt in the beginning makes the climb safe and enjoyable.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
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