Forsida Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 5+

Adjacent Routes
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128m. (The Outside Route) A great climb, and by far the best way up the Goat, if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes MUCH more sense to climb across.
1) 3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the south west arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) 4, 14m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) 5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack then finger and hand-jam this, before moving right then back left to an exit onto a slab. A little higher cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of 'the sofa' and a super-comfy stance.
4) 5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Up this by finger-jamming (excellent gear) to a stance on the shoulder.
5) 5+, 20m. The diagonal crack spitting the face of the Goat is the Vestveggen-Avslutning (West Wall Finish). The start is the crux (harder now since the 2007 rockfall), then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Big Horn. Cross the gap to belay on the Little Horn.
FA. W Höyer, A Krane 1947 FA. The West Wall Finish, B Bommen, B Lyche 1928

USER COMMENTS

Lots of nice sections of climbing and great views, but overall too ledgy to be considered really brilliant. Still perhaps the best route on the Goat (at least of of the easier ones), but climbing-wise not on a par with some of the Henningvaer area routes.
Toby - 07/May/07

This is a must do for Lofoten and well worth the 30 min slog up. On the initial approach you might think it looks very green, but on closer inspection it is clean. Some excellent positions high above Svolvae and only just 5a. Best done with a large group as an end of trip expedition!
Mike Smith - 28/Aug/07

Climbing across the horns wasn't too bad, but thought the ab off must have been a lot easier to sort out before the rockfall - my partner threaded the ropes in discomfort whilst dangling in the gap between horns! Thought the West Wall finish was fairly straightforward for 5+ and found the wide crack on pitch 4 to be the crux.
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08

Climbed the route after some rain and a wet approach, but the rock wasn't too wet and the climbing was nice! Pitches 3 and 4 were really good, with crux sections in the beginning (for both), while pitch 5 was easier (although it's described as 5+).
Plenty of people and a long queue to reach the top, although the weather was not the best. About 2 hours of waiting at the last stance...
Anders Fougner - 28/Jul/08

Climbed it in quite wet and cold conditions but still good fun. Didn't find p5 harder than 3 & 4
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard 6- 0 of 5
    6- 0 of 5
    easy 6- 0 of 5
    hard 5+ 1 of 5
    5+ 2 of 5
    easy 5+ 2 of 5
    hard0 of 5
    0 of 5
    easy0 of 5
    3 Stars 6 of 8
    2 Stars 1 of 8
    1 Star 1 of 8
    0 Stars 0 of 8
    Bag of ..... 0 of 8

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