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Adjacent Routes
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128m. (The Outside Route) A great climb, and by far the best way up the Goat, if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes MUCH more sense to climb across.
1) 3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the south west arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) 4, 14m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) 5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack then finger and hand-jam this, before moving right then back left to an exit onto a slab. A little higher cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of 'the sofa' and a super-comfy stance.
4) 5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Up this by finger-jamming (excellent gear) to a stance on the shoulder.
5) 5+, 20m. The diagonal crack spitting the face of the Goat is the Vestveggen-Avslutning (West Wall Finish). The start is the crux (harder now since the 2007 rockfall), then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Big Horn. Cross the gap to belay on the Little Horn.
FA. W Höyer, A Krane 1947 FA. The West Wall Finish, B Bommen, B Lyche 1928