Roof Route

2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Regular Route < Groove Route  |  Root Route > Dynasty >>


10m. A 'traditional' grit HVS, the leering roof crack is as good and as hard as it looks. Getting your hands round the lip is okay, then the problems begin. Not one to learn the mystical art on!
FA. Joe Brown late 1950s

USER COMMENTS

The grade is meaningless, it's just a struggle!

Suffice to say: Not a route for the climbing wall generation...
Chris C - 04/Mar/02

As a proud member of 'the climbing wall generation' ;) I really enjoyed this route and didn't think it was as hard as some people make out. Very solid jams under the roof, at the lip and above the lip. Good gear. Perfect!
Nick Smith - 15/Jun/02

this was an interesting introduction to jamming for me. Very short lived, make sure you lead with the right arm into the top crack.
Dave - 21/Oct/02

Not for weak or unfit arms. Ideal for climbing wallers! - you have the strength. A good abrasive fight 25 years ago.Chris
Chris - 24/Jun/03

Good abrasive route. Harder than Jeepers Creepers.
Garan - 01/Sep/03

Somethings wrong then... Jeepers spat me off big time, breezed this one! Elastic legs make things much easier. Was well hungover on Jeepers mind 8-)
Salamanda - 20/Feb/04

Need to work on my arms, jammed my along the roof and back 4 time but couldn' find the strength to pull through the lip.
Jon Greengrass - 04/Oct/04

Easier than Jeepers I thought, jams are very good. More painful though, if anyone finds large patch of skin in crack then it's probably mine.
MeMeMe - 01/Nov/04

Unless you really like this type of climb it'll feel E1. I found it harder than jeepers creepers - but lost less skin. left heel hook seemed to be the way forward.
Steve Ramsden - 01/Aug/05

As someone who loves hand-jamming, this was quite gnarly. Getting to the last move was easy and fun, but it's a gnarly battle to get stood up. Very dependent on hand size - would be easy with big hands and desperate with small ones.
Fiend - 22/Feb/06

Ard! Can't see this as HVS or 5b Harder than any E1 ive ever done. Plus I love jamming small hands don't help turning the lip and standing up. Agree with above left heel hook way forward.
Michael - 17/Jan/07

Ace route - definitely one for the jamming fans. Much as I would love to say that it's E1, it's way too short and unsustained to be E1. Beta: Friend size 2.5 + left heel hook
Tom - 21/Apr/07

Its HVS 5b. Once you learn the 'trick', its fine, thuggy for sure, but fine. Be careful placing gear over the lip - think about where your hands need to go. Now, Jeepers Creepers, your time has come...(erm, again).
Jon Leighton - 16/Dec/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 89
    hard E1 0 of 30
    E1 0 of 30
    easy E1 12 of 30
    hard HVS 12 of 30
    HVS 5 of 30
    easy HVS 0 of 30
    hard VS 1 of 30
    VS 0 of 30
    easy VS 0 of 30
    hard 5c 0 of 30
    5c 0 of 30
    easy 5c 5 of 30
    hard 5b 15 of 30
    5b 9 of 30
    easy 5b 0 of 30
    hard 5a 1 of 30
    5a 0 of 30
    easy 5a 0 of 30
    3 Stars 15 of 29
    2 Stars 9 of 29
    1 Star 4 of 29
    0 Stars 0 of 29
    Bag of ..... 1 of 29

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