Tufted Crack Top 50

2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Napoleon < Blucher  |  Spider Wall > Earwig Rib >>


14m. The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin for hands, you could always try and layback it.
FA. George Walker 1954. FFA. Allan Austin 1970

USER COMMENTS

Had a go on a top rope. Urgh! Still got the scabs.
Dave Foster - 08/May/07

I miserably failed on the crux crack (got about half way up before taking a tumble)-three times. I wouldn't try to layback it, that's just a recipe for failure (no's 2 and 3), it's learn to jam or fail. I chose fail but I'll be back to try again. A better climber will probably find this easy, the one who walked up it after me did!
David Berry - 13/Aug/07

Tricky upper crack - felt harder than any single move on Regent Street, but you can place high runners, try it out, reverse back, rest etc etc. I agree with last comment - jamming skills important, but not just for your hands.
Jon Leighton - 25/Aug/08

Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I think.
David Berry - 15/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard E1 8 of 10
    E1 2 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 9
    6a 0 of 9
    easy 6a 0 of 9
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 9 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 0 of 9
    easy 5b 0 of 9
    3 Stars 2 of 9
    2 Stars 6 of 9
    1 Star 1 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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