Love Bug

1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Enigma < Birch Tree Wall  |  Left Wall > Resurrection >>

16m. Climb the crack in the left wall of the huge gully to its end then traverse the break left to the arete. Follow this with well positioned climbing. A Direct Start up the right-hand side of the lower arete is 5b.
FA. Tony Barley 1970. FA. (Direct Start) Tony Marr 1994


This grade can't be right, can it? Once you get to the arete there is a small nut placement and then nothing until the top (unless I missed something). Anyway, I bottled it and finished up birch tree wall. The traverse of the break is class though.
Richard Ackbar - 12/Nov/07

You missed a small wire thread to the right of the nut placement, a poor small friend once you're stood up, and at least 3 decent cams once you're stood on the next ledge. Oh and a good nut and large cam to finish.

Anyway this is a good line but not a good climb. Awkward, slopey to start, weird wandering feel to it, doesn't really climb the arete properly. Okay it's got, like, moves and stuff, but is fairly lacking in fun.
Fiend - 09/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 11
    hard E1 0 of 4
    E1 0 of 4
    easy E1 2 of 4
    hard HVS 0 of 4
    HVS 2 of 4
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    hard VS 0 of 4
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    hard 5b 0 of 4
    5b 0 of 4
    easy 5b 1 of 4
    hard 5a 2 of 4
    5a 1 of 4
    easy 5a 0 of 4
    hard 4c 0 of 4
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    easy 4c 0 of 4
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