Index Variation

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Scoop and Crack < Knuckle Slab Arete  |  Knuckle Slab > Nose Climb >>

10m. An excellent direct line up the centre of the slab.


Where does this go at the top of the slab? Up to the headwall is no harder than 4b (though very nice) and finishing up the wide crack would make a good VS 4b deserving of a couple of stars. The line in the guide, however, shows it finishing up the wall to the right of the crack. This wall has no gear or any holds and is clearly a lot harder than 5a, especially if you stay out of the crack entirely.
colin angus - 01/Aug/08

lovely padding. i've finished up the big crack left of the topo line which as you say is very nice, and i've also gone up the slab right of the dirty groove, eliminating the groove makes for some interesting and pretty runout moves which are about 5a.
luke - 07/Nov/08

The line in the topo is definitely wrong. The route finishes by traversing right and going up the narrow easier-angled slab on the other side of the wide crack (shared with the top of Early Doors which takes the narrow slab in its entirety). It's probably better to finish up the wide crack of Scoop and Crack instead though.
Simon Caldwell - 09/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 4
    hard HVS 0 of 2
    HVS 0 of 2
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    easy 5a 1 of 1
    hard 4c 0 of 1
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