Nogads

1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
 7b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Subterfuge < Quality Control  |  Blockhead > Reasons to be Cheerful >>


After a powerful start it relents to just technical and fingery climbing until the last move above an undercut shake. Finish direct using a sloper and gain the lower-off. Trending left into Quality Control before the last move is a good 7b.
FA. Martin Crocker 1988

USER COMMENTS

powerful start but you can end up on the route to the left resting then at the top either do a hard 6C move with blinkers on or go slightly left or right(not so nice as the left method) and finish easily. Not a route I would recommend the second clip is the crux.
gareth - 13/Sep/00

lower off now in place on the tree to give a better more direct finish. It would probably be better with a couple of bolts up there though.
nick - 20/Jul/02

This route is a solid 7b+ but no more. After the hard start and technical upper wall, reach an undercut for the right hand and sidepull for the left and shake out. Don't stray leftwards into QC as there is a near-hands off rest there. The final move is a tough 6b slap for a sloper and crank through the bulge to the tree (hard when pumped!)
Ed - 23/Jul/02

Agree with Ed.7b+ although the short may find the finish almost impossible.
jez portman - 27/Jun/03

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard 7c 0 of 7
    7c 0 of 7
    easy 7c 0 of 7
    hard 7b+ 3 of 7
    7b+ 0 of 7
    easy 7b+ 4 of 7
    hard 7b 0 of 7
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    2 Stars 4 of 15
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