Aberration

2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 8a

Adjacent Routes
<< Goldfinger < The Flight of Icarus  |  Minos > Buster >>


A long diagonal pitch (30m) with some good climbing. Low in the grade. Start up Goldfinger to the second bolt. Traverse right into the semi-rest of Minos. Continue right via a very hard move, almost to the belay of Gonads. Climb straight up to the top.
FA. Simon Nadin, Richard Davies 1984

USER COMMENTS

gained an unorigonal bolt via Minos being established,
lost a hold or two after mike lea's ascent,
v generous grade of 8a, i repeated it with new bolt(good addition makes it a sport route!) 7c / baby 7c+ but i am of normal height with a longish wingspan
mark bridgman smith - 16/Jun/01

seems to of gained two new bolts at the beginning, soft touch 8a but may still be worth the grade as its long and fairly pumpy, very good as well.
gareth scott - 24/May/03

Bit confused by this route, does it finish now at the gonads belay or continue up before that
point?Finishing at Gonads does involve a couple more difficult moves, but have I missed an
important part of the route? Certainly someone has added extra bolts at the start, and maybe
one further on. Whatever way well worth 2 stars.
Allen Price - 06/Oct/03

It currently finishes at the top of the crag VIA the Gonads belay and 2 pegs. The pegs may be replaced with bolts in the near future and a joint belay added for both routes higher up the crag.
Alan James, ROCKFAX - 10/Oct/03

Sorry folks, I pulled off the big-ish undercuts at the end of the crux section, while reversing the route to clean it after redpoint. If its any consolation, the fall did hurt.
Al Austin - 12/Dec/08

Hi Al, can it be glued back on or did the piece crumble away? Will it be much harder now? Ted
Ted Kingsnorth - 15/Dec/08

I think 7c+ for Aberration, the loss of holds referred to above makes no difference to the route. I also linked Minos into Aberration (somebody had to do it!) which I think just about nudges the grade up to 8a even though its shorter.
Ted Kingsnorth - 17/Jun/09

Upper 2 pegs replaced with bolts 07/09. Lower off added too.
ChrisC - 29/Jul/09

Intense climbing but memory counts for little; the best holds have fallen off every time I go on it. Soft 8a.
carl dawson - 06/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard 8a+ 0 of 10
    8a+ 0 of 10
    easy 8a+ 0 of 10
    hard 8a 0 of 10
    8a 1 of 10
    easy 8a 7 of 10
    hard 7c+ 2 of 10
    7c+ 0 of 10
    easy 7c+ 0 of 10
    3 Stars 0 of 9
    2 Stars 8 of 9
    1 Star 1 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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