Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 44
A fine and devious route which is one of the best of its grade in the Peak. Very sustained, though with a harder move to reach the roof. Climb a flake to a peg. Step across left to another flake then pull up with difficulty (peg above) to below the roof. Pull over to gain a bucket then tiptoe right across the slab. Climb direct to the top and a dirty exit.
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For authentic route experience climb at the hottest part of a searingly hot day having forgotten your water bottle.
"all the moves are about 5c" is a jolly useful description. "Good rests" are less certain, there is not much comfort to be found between the 1st, 2nd and 3rd cruxes. Some pretty mad moves required and the gear is quite a fiddle too - challenging but satisfying.
Littered with insitu wires and pegs adorned with very visible purple rope.Tell me if I'm wrong but is this what trad limestone is all about?
Well, it is one of the best E3 trads route in the peak and its a shame its been compromised by this project. You can clip 3 of the bolts (1, 2, and 5) from Mad Dogs. There is plenty of rock to make indifferent 7C's out of down there, there's not so many 3* E3's in the Peak. A Fairer solution would be for the project to start up MD on trad gear, then break out on the new line, thus leaving the origional route unchanged, if it has to be there at all. Better still the bolts should go, and a Peak classic that is still very regulary climbed left well alone.
In support of my project that would appear to be causing some concern down in Cheedale. Firstly,the only place that you could conceivably clip one of my bolts is on the traverse.You would have to climb up to clip it.
I respect your comments and agree with a lot of what you say. However, your ideas about bolts that can be clipped on trad routes do not add up. The whole point of a trad route is to climb without bolts. So if there is one to clip and you are in 'extremis', you always have the option to clip it and escape in safety if you have to to get out of danger. This takes away from the experience of trad climbing where the aim is to put yourself in a position of having to rely only upon your wires/ friends and climbing prowess. The fact that you might overextend yourself and 'run it out' with no way of putting in gear would spoil the experience with the mere fact of a bolt being available, even if you don't clip it. Think about it and try to respect British trad climbing heritage before you bolt.
mad dogs is one of the best trad routes in the peak if not the country. Now unless this new sport route is of a similar calibre, then i suggest its not worth tarnishing a superb trad route for, even if you are desperate to get your name in print. Is this "just another 7c" sport route worth comprimising this route?
Mike, like ted I agree with most of what you say. The 'just don't clip it then' argument is flawed though, and has been discussed too many times already...
Another view from someone who found MD and E really satisfying.... I echo what Dave says - doesn't the Peak limestone have enough limestone F7cs already?? Enough perhaps to leave a rarer and very characterful classic alone...
Seems that I have incurred the wrath of the trad climbing world.All I wanted to do was do what I thought climbers were meant to do.I saw a line of unclimbed rock and decided to put a project on it.I climb up to about 7c+ at present therefore it is a project to me.Tell me if I'm wrong but is that not what you do.The bolts were put in as carefully (believe me or not) to not affect Mad dogs.I even utilised the jammed wire at the top of the 2nd. groove.
And they will be removed, and replaced until someone gets bored. It certainly wont be the removers who get bored. The bolts WILL not stay
"Climbing is art, sport, lifestyle and combat.
A really good route that I enjoyed many years ago without any bolts nearby and that is the way it should stay! There are loads of sports routes down the dales and very few classic trad routes like this and I think we should keep the bolts away!
Registering new route"THE MYSTS OF CHEE".This is the line of bolts to the left of Mad Dogs.This route climbs the delicate wall to reach the left hand flake.Go up this to join Mad Dogs at the in-situ wire.Step right on undercuts then ascend the overhang direct to reach a further flake.Step left on the lip then move up to join Mad Dogs at the niche.Step right and climb up to a two bo;t belay.6 bolts+in-situ wire.Grade 7C+ mike przygrodzki 13/7/09
The peg on this route is unsafe and needs replacing.mike p
Good effort in getting your project done mike. I climbed mad dogs yesterday and you can clip two of the lower bolts on 'the mysts of chee' from mad dogs. Would it not be better therefore if your route started up mad dogs and Englishmen? That way the two bolts at the beginning could be removed as to not interfere with mad dogs. Would starting up mad dogs adversely effect the quality and difficulty of 'the mysts of chee'?
Did Mad Dogs yesterday - a totally brilliant adventure, didn't clip or see any bolts, but I hadn't read this first and wasn't looking.