2 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Moolah < Altar Crack  |  Gettin' Kinda Squirrelly > Vestry Chimney >>

10m. The thin crack has perfect protection and superb finger jams but still manages to be surprisingly hard work. If you manage this one okay you are probably ready for your 1st E1!
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s


This makes for an excellent test of E1 technicality, which I`ve now failed twice 8-(
It shall be freed!!
Salamanda - 20/Feb/04 excellent test of HVS technicality more like! Why the upgrade from BMC guide? Are we going soft?
Ted Kingsnorth - 19/Nov/04

Felt like solid E1 to me.
jhenryb - 14/Feb/05

I have to take issue here. This is a very short route and fair enough it has couple of tricky moves but the point is its well-protected and should be the epitome of gritstone HVS - short n'hard (like one of the medium's more well-known protagonists). Sorry to bang on about this but this needs underlining and I don't mind making this route into something of a 'cause celebre'.
Ed - 14/Feb/05

did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS
ste - 20/Apr/05

5b moves down low and up top, with it being v strenuous to place gear anywhere other than below your feet for these moves. It might be short, but this is not HVS.
Iain Cattanach - 09/Mar/08

Technical 5b climbing in a nicely sustained way. Fine if you can use your feet and spot all the holds.
Jon Leighton - 12/Oct/09

So hard! Terrazza Crack, Surgeon's Saunter etc are hard at HVS, but this is a joke (the olds ones are the best...). This one doesn't even have the thuggy character of an HVS route - finger cracks generally get E-grades, and the moves on the slopers with no footholds are super-hard.

Similar route at Curbar, with a finger crack followed by slopers, is Lamebrain and is E1. This one is twice as hard as that.
Jon Stewart - 16/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 83
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