Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 83
The thin crack has perfect protection and superb finger jams but still manages to be shockingly hard work considering its length. A long-term hard Hard VS that has finally been upgraded.
This makes for an excellent test of E1 technicality, which I`ve now failed twice 8-(
..an excellent test of HVS technicality more like! Why the upgrade from BMC guide? Are we going soft?
Felt like solid E1 to me.
I have to take issue here. This is a very short route and fair enough it has couple of tricky moves but the point is its well-protected and should be the epitome of gritstone HVS - short n'hard (like one of the medium's more well-known protagonists). Sorry to bang on about this but this needs underlining and I don't mind making this route into something of a 'cause celebre'.
did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS
5b moves down low and up top, with it being v strenuous to place gear anywhere other than below your feet for these moves. It might be short, but this is not HVS.
Technical 5b climbing in a nicely sustained way. Fine if you can use your feet and spot all the holds.
So hard! Terrazza Crack, Surgeon's Saunter etc are hard at HVS, but this is a joke (the olds ones are the best...). This one doesn't even have the thuggy character of an HVS route - finger cracks generally get E-grades, and the moves on the slopers with no footholds are super-hard.