Nonsuch

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Moolah < Altar Crack  |  Grimace > Gettin' Kinda Squirrelly >>


The thin crack has perfect protection and superb finger-jams but still manages to be shockingly hard work considering its length. A long-term hard HVS.
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s

USER COMMENTS

This makes for an excellent test of E1 technicality, which I`ve now failed twice 8-(
It shall be freed!!
Salamanda - 20/Feb/04

..an excellent test of HVS technicality more like! Why the upgrade from BMC guide? Are we going soft?
Ted Kingsnorth - 19/Nov/04

Felt like solid E1 to me.
jhenryb - 14/Feb/05

I have to take issue here. This is a very short route and fair enough it has couple of tricky moves but the point is its well-protected and should be the epitome of gritstone HVS - short n'hard (like one of the medium's more well-known protagonists). Sorry to bang on about this but this needs underlining and I don't mind making this route into something of a 'cause celebre'.
Ed - 14/Feb/05

did brush off, party animal and original on the needle then came here and fell off this. ok mostly my fault but still think more E1 than HVS
ste - 20/Apr/05

5b moves down low and up top, with it being v strenuous to place gear anywhere other than below your feet for these moves. It might be short, but this is not HVS.
Iain Cattanach - 09/Mar/08

Technical 5b climbing in a nicely sustained way. Fine if you can use your feet and spot all the holds.
Jon Leighton - 12/Oct/09

So hard! Terrazza Crack, Surgeon's Saunter etc are hard at HVS, but this is a joke (the olds ones are the best...). This one doesn't even have the thuggy character of an HVS route - finger cracks generally get E-grades, and the moves on the slopers with no footholds are super-hard.

Similar route at Curbar, with a finger crack followed by slopers, is Lamebrain and is E1. This one is twice as hard as that.
Jon Stewart - 16/May/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 83
    hard E2 0 of 15
    E2 0 of 15
    easy E2 0 of 15
    hard E1 1 of 15
    E1 0 of 15
    easy E1 10 of 15
    hard HVS 0 of 15
    HVS 4 of 15
    easy HVS 0 of 15
    hard 5c 0 of 35
    5c 1 of 35
    easy 5c 2 of 35
    hard 5b 7 of 35
    5b 25 of 35
    easy 5b 0 of 35
    hard 5a 0 of 35
    5a 0 of 35
    easy 5a 0 of 35
    3 Stars 4 of 33
    2 Stars 25 of 33
    1 Star 4 of 33
    0 Stars 0 of 33
    Bag of ..... 0 of 33

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.