West Sphinx Direct Top 50

3 Stars
 E3 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Direct Start < West Sphinx Climb  |  Black Knight > Terrorist >>

10m. Superb bold and engrossing, and only a bit harder than the 1959 original version. Follow the bold start to West Sphinx Climb as far as the thin horizontal crack. Make a long move up to a pocket then slink off right to the forehead slab. Substantially harder for the short, especially the reach for the eye.
FA. Paul Ingham 1979


The "eye" takes a very welcome Friend 2 1/2 or at least it did about 15 years ago when I last did it. The move for the eye is very reach dependent.
Chris Shorter - 21/Sep/07

Very reach dependent going for the pocket; the only way I could see to do this was to undercut the break, not a 5b move for me I thought. Thought the gear was rubbish too. Felt like E4 5c.
Jon Read - 25/Sep/07

... but I could see it might be 5b if you're 'standard' height!
Jon Read - 25/Sep/07

WOW! Amazing route. E4 5c? I wish! I've seen good gear arranged in the break, but mine left a lot to be desired.
I wouldn't place gear in the eye, i was thinking about it but in hindsight i'd rather just pull right and get it over and done with, relax and feel good!
David Warburton - 16/Apr/08

had to piano play my fingers into the eye, felt like hard 5c to me at 5'7". gear in break takes some thinking but i had confidence in my set up. 5b move guarding the main crux is no pushover.
GuyVG - 02/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 18
    hard E4 0 of 6
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    easy E4 0 of 6
    hard E3 3 of 6
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    hard 5b 2 of 6
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