Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
14m. Excellent, a real midget gem. Follow East Sphinx Climb (or East Sphinx Direct) but traverse left, heading for the eye, on a continually surprising set of holds, onto the exposed arete hanging in space. Step round onto the forehead and reach for the flutings. Lovely stuff.
One star?!? This is one of the best single pitch severes in the country!
Sorry - a typo, I'll get it changed.
Climbed this in 1973 - had very little gear but there aren't many placements anyhow. Quite a bold feel to it especially stepping round onto the final slab, which as wet and a westerly gale was blowing!