Sphinx Nose Traverse Top 50

3 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< East Sphinx Direct < East Sphinx Climb  |  Jackdaw Wall > Jackdaw Ridge >>


14m. Excellent, a real midget gem. Follow East Sphinx Climb (or East Sphinx Direct) but traverse left, heading for the eye, on a continually surprising set of holds, onto the exposed arete hanging in space. Step round onto the forehead and reach for the flutings. Lovely stuff.
FA. Cliff Fielding 1954

USER COMMENTS

One star?!? This is one of the best single pitch severes in the country!
Simon Caldwell - 03/Apr/07

Sorry - a typo, I'll get it changed.


CC
Chris Craggs - 03/Apr/07

Climbed this in 1973 - had very little gear but there aren't many placements anyhow. Quite a bold feel to it especially stepping round onto the final slab, which as wet and a westerly gale was blowing!
allmag - 23/Sep/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard HS 0 of 10
    HS 0 of 10
    easy HS 2 of 10
    hard S 2 of 10
    S 6 of 10
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    hard 4a 1 of 10
    4a 6 of 10
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    hard 3c 0 of 10
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    3 Stars 7 of 10
    2 Stars 2 of 10
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    Bag of ..... 1 of 10

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