Route Grade Votings
10m. Pull onto the arete as for Too Young to Fly and shuffle right until an elongated pocket can be reached by harsh cranking on the prominent nipple. Head up the steep wall into a left slanting groove that leads to the big grass ledge, then escape up the groove at the back of the ledge.
If it goes where I think it does, this is way way harder than VS 5a. So, you shuffle your feet along the break for maybe 10 feet. Get some wires in before you get too pumped. Make a big move up right for a nipple. Feet up, pull really hard and go for jugs above. I'd put this at something more like E2 5c.