2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Esmerelda < Esmerunga  |  General Incompetance > Toys for the Boys >>

Start as for Esmerelda, but trend right to the break and a rest on the right. Traverse strenuously back left along the lip then up to gain a stuck-on hold in a faint groove. Fight back right from this (moving low is a cop-out!) to follow the large flake to the belay. Phew! Some of it was climbed before by Major Incontinence which passes the lone bolt on the right at E5 6c.
FA. Gary Gibson 1998. FA. (MI) Dave Pegg 1988


The route does not go right to the flake and since the loss of a hold is worth 7b+ and three stars
Gary Gibson - 19/Jul/00

Harder since the loss of holds.I don't know how you can avoid the big flake on the right without making it very artificial. The route is not a classic but has one nice move on it thus making it worth one star. If Gary didn't over-rate all his routes (ie, too many stars) people might take all his hard-work and effort a little more seriously. 'Stung' is not a route of major national importance and therefore not worth 3 stars.
Dave - 19/Jul/00

Gary is totally correct. This route obviously goes direct, is 7b+ and 3 stars.
AllenP - 25/Jul/02

Agreed, though only 7b before the hold broke.
Caddy - 27/Jun/03

Avoiding final flake on the right at the top would feel very contrived. Going direct is not the obvious finish. Rubber & chalk suggests everyone else thinks so too.
ChrisC - 29/Jun/09

Rubbish, I have done this loads of times and never even thought of moving far right to the flake. You make a move right, and then go straight up via a difficult and weird hand type jam in order to snatch for the jug rail.
allen price - 08/Jul/09

Depends what you call a flake... I'd call the feature with the jug rail and the features below it a flake (there's an even bigger one further right) From some of the previous comments & the description in the NL book it reads like you should climb the upper wall to the left of the bolts.
ChrisC - 09/Jul/09

A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, grade 7b/7b+?
(Dominic Lee 2011)
Graham Hoey - 08/Jul/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.