Midnight Summer Dream

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Two Sunspots < Koroblin  |  The Ape Escape > Midnight at the Oasis >>


A good first limestone E5. Although the crux section may induce some butterflies, the fall is both safe enough and long enough to encourage success. Climb to the leftward-leaning crack and on to the bolt. Continue above this until it is possible to escape leftwards into Two Sunspots.
FA. Gary Gibson, Adam Hudson 1983

USER COMMENTS

Worth E5 without the bolt, take same tat for 2 small threads. Would be worth replacing tat for the top thread after the bolt if you're thinking of testing it
phatlad - 22/Aug/05

Not sure this would be E5 without bolt, big run-out from two nuts 6ft lower, making the crux a bit run-out and then deckout potential at the thread, having never climbed an E6 i imagine thats what it would be like. The tat didnt seem too bad yesterday but worth replacing in next couple of years. Also worth cleaning if your pushing the boat out on it.
alexmason - 11/Sep/09

Cleaned May 2010. Tat seemed OK - nice soft touch at E5 as the meaty bit is all over quite quickly.
Eric Hildrew - 17/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E6 0 of 10
    E6 0 of 10
    easy E6 0 of 10
    hard E5 0 of 10
    E5 8 of 10
    easy E5 1 of 10
    hard E4 1 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard 6b 0 of 9
    6b 0 of 9
    easy 6b 0 of 9
    hard 6a 3 of 9
    6a 2 of 9
    easy 6a 4 of 9
    hard 5c 0 of 9
    5c 0 of 9
    easy 5c 0 of 9
    3 Stars 8 of 10
    2 Stars 2 of 10
    1 Star 0 of 10
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    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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