Tequila Mockingbird

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
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An outstanding route marking a step forward in trad limestone climbing. A serious start and long moves between distant gear put this at the upper limit of the grade. Start below the rather high first bolt. Good luck. The route had a controversial history but hopefully now it will remain in its 2 pegs, 2 bolts state. To do a 7c sport route, pre-clip the first bolt above the initial run-out then those climbers who want to attempt a classic E6 still can. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone.
FA. Ron Fawcett 1982. Originally climbed with yo-yo techniques. Visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it 'Gandalf Le Magicien' claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gained bolts on its initial wall against the wishes of the 1st ascensionist, and then had them removed.

USER COMMENTS

Middle 7c when bolted and v good!
Steve - 21/Feb/02

Cleaned 15 June 2008.
Tom - 16/Jun/08

Presumably more holds have come off this as it is now at least F7c+ and maybe even F8a? Apparently there were wires before the first bolt when Ron did it. It's now about F7a+ to get to the first bolt. You would need a very long clip stick to pre-clip that first bolt!
Tom - 14/Jul/08

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 4
    hard E7 0 of 2
    E7 0 of 2
    easy E7 1 of 2
    hard E6 0 of 2
    E6 1 of 2
    easy E6 0 of 2
    hard E5 0 of 2
    E5 0 of 2
    easy E5 0 of 2
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    3 Stars 2 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

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