Mortlock's Arete

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Basic Channel < Eyes of Fire  |  The Freeman Trap > Mantrap >>


Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to a bulge (normally with some rotten stuck wires). Pull past these (old peg) and gain the beckoning flake. Thug your way up this to final taxing moves (the scene of many failures) leading to a belay on a small ledge.
2) 6a, 15m. The steep, and well-protected groove (an old peg and good wires) above is a contrast to the pitch below requiring subtlety rather than brute strength.
FFA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1976 after a race against Fawcett and Livesey. FA. Colin Mortlock, Lynne Noble, P.Hutchinson 1962. The line they took incorporates Apocalypse P2.

USER COMMENTS

Fantastic route for the grade, and a bit of a battle. Shame it doesn't get more traffic as it's pretty dirty at the moment. Top pitch wasn't all that and a bag of chips though. Get on it and enjoy ;o)
matt - 13/Jun/05

Both pitches cleaned June 2008, and top ab point backed up. Do this route and keep it clean! The best E4 on Peak Limestone!
Graham Hoey - 13/Jun/08

Climbed today. Brilliant route, relatively clean, even cleaner now. Do it.
alexmason - 30/Aug/09

Seems both dirty and a bit polished at the moment. We picked a hot day for it though which was probably a mistake! Dogged!
Chris Parson - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
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