Route Grade Votings
14m. The left-hand side of the smooth face. Follow a discontinuous series of flakes until they fizzle out at a good pocket. Continue directly up the face (small wires) on spaced holds to the break and a tough exit. The original traverse left to put runners in Tube misses out the main point of the challenge and is E5 6b.
The first ascent of the direct version was by Mark Savage in 2003. There were two belayers, one of whom was the legendary Karl Telfer who made the first ascent of the original Charlotte's Dream.