Charlotte's Dream Direct

2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E7 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tube < Right of Reply  |  On the Rocks > Duke of York >>


14m. The left-hand side of the smooth face. Follow a discontinuous series of flakes until they fizzle out at a good pocket. Continue directly up the face (small wires) on spaced holds to the break and a tough exit. The original traverse left to put runners in Tube misses out the main point of the challenge and is E5 6b.
FA. Mark Savage 2003. FA. (Original) Karl Telfer 1987

USER COMMENTS

The first ascent of the direct version was by Mark Savage in 2003. There were two belayers, one of whom was the legendary Karl Telfer who made the first ascent of the original Charlotte's Dream.
Mark Savage - 02/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E8 0 of 0
    E8 0 of 0
    easy E8 0 of 0
    hard E7 0 of 0
    E7 0 of 0
    easy E7 0 of 0
    hard E6 0 of 0
    E6 0 of 0
    easy E6 0 of 0
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
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