Dead Heat

1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Slab and Corner < Photo Finish  |  Renrock > Black Wall >>


10m. The slab just right of centre is technical, tenuous and unprotected, with crucial moves to pass the end of the overlap.
FA. Nick White 1985

USER COMMENTS

Sequency unprotected moves above a horrible landing make this a total sandbag at E4 5c.
Soloed it today - feels steady enough once you know the moves, but easy to get wrong, and certainly 6a moves where falling off would be messy...
Matt Telfer - 15/Dec/01

Oh, my God.
Paz - 19/Dec/01

It's not 6b, as the old Stanage guide claimed, but E4 5c is a huge sandbag. Most of the moves feel 5c+/6a- and the landing is awful. I'd agree with E5 6a.
Adrian Baugh - 27/Aug/02

can people not that this (see photo) is photo finish, not dead heat:

http://users.ox.ac.uk/~climbing/gallery/uk/deadheat.jpg
whatever - 20/Sep/04

Are you saying that david law is not on 'Dead Heat'? I would say that the arete to his right in this photo is the right hand arete of the buttress, and 'Photo finish' is on the left hand side of the buttress.
karl walton - 31/Oct/04

No, he's refering to the photo in the link. Shame about the crab hanging over the top of the buttress.
Ropeboy - 01/Nov/04

Does this go up the right hand side of the slab or is it more central near by the overlap? Once you've stood up with the undercuts the only holds were footholds on photo finish, otherwise a reach bigger than mine would be needed to go direct.
Iggy_B - 24/May/05

Yes from the undercut there are 2 small holds(footholds on the E1) and then a thank god hold. It's 6a and a dodgy landing. When does E4 become E5? Purely on sight it probably is E5 6a. It's just that it's easy to check out the holds from the E1. Andy S
Charlton C - 20/Dec/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E6 0 of 0
    E6 0 of 0
    easy E6 0 of 0
    hard E5 0 of 0
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    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard 6b 0 of 0
    6b 0 of 0
    easy 6b 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    hard 5c 0 of 0
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