Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
10m. The slab just right of centre is technical, tenuous and unprotected, with crucial moves to pass the end of the overlap.
Sequency unprotected moves above a horrible landing make this a total sandbag at E4 5c.
Oh, my God.
It's not 6b, as the old Stanage guide claimed, but E4 5c is a huge sandbag. Most of the moves feel 5c+/6a- and the landing is awful. I'd agree with E5 6a.
can people not that this (see photo) is photo finish, not dead heat:
Are you saying that david law is not on 'Dead Heat'? I would say that the arete to his right in this photo is the right hand arete of the buttress, and 'Photo finish' is on the left hand side of the buttress.
No, he's refering to the photo in the link. Shame about the crab hanging over the top of the buttress.
Does this go up the right hand side of the slab or is it more central near by the overlap? Once you've stood up with the undercuts the only holds were footholds on photo finish, otherwise a reach bigger than mine would be needed to go direct.
Yes from the undercut there are 2 small holds(footholds on the E1) and then a thank god hold. It's 6a and a dodgy landing. When does E4 become E5? Purely on sight it probably is E5 6a. It's just that it's easy to check out the holds from the E1. Andy S