Caveman

3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
 7a+ S3

Adjacent Routes
<< Magical Mystery Tour < Green Grotto Traverse  |  Killa Gorilla > Rainbow Bridge >>


Caveman's first four pitches; wild, wild climbing across the hanging pink flakes, and above reasonable water all the way (expect a depth of around 3-3.5m at a decent high tide, but please check the depth over the solitary boulder). Pitch 4 is shared with Lip Trip and finishes some 20m above the sea on a big tide, whilst the hanging traverse sections of pitches 2 and 3 are around 15-17m. Use a BIG tide, and take your big guns!
40m. Climb across Caveman's easy lower traverse pitch to arrive at the hanging flakes. Follow these with commitment to a rest in the original belay niche, and flap across the rest of the pink traverse to gain a second 'almost' hands-off rest on the last protruding 'beak'. From here, climb up and left (probably the mental crux) to gain and finish on the stunning Lip Trip pitch. All recent solo ascensionists have reversed a short way down the trad route Dreadnought and jumped.
FSA. Dave Thomas 8.1989, using Terracotta variation on pitch 4; original line soloed by Tim Emmett 8.2005.

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