Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 81
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder.
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How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack.
The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe.
Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though!
Having seen someone deck out on this after his micros in the break failed, I would suggest the better-safe-than-sorry approach to the RP placements is a wise one.
A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade.
Nice to go up the arete all the way, too.
Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs.
did you fall on them then?
I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s"
No, just reversed to the ground and swung around on the rope a bit. You wouldn't do much more than bounce on them if you came off on the crux.
so how do you know how bomber they are?
I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade.
Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it.