Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 27
172m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.</br>1) 4b, 30m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.</br>2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.</br>3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.</br>4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic, to a great hanging stance.</br>5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco, tricky crossing the left wall, until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground.
can be done in any conditions. the crux at the top of ceramic then becomes either 5b(mud) or a totally ungradeable sprint.
Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun.
Great route, and damn good value for money! Final pitch is never 4c, at least 5a, felt like the crux pitch, with the added excitement that my leader didn't place any gear between the crux and the final belay!