The best route at Troller's Gill starting up the left-facing corner to a ledge and then moving out left and up to finish. Pumpy and at the top of the grade.
FFA. Paul Craven 1983. FA. Mike Raine, Joyce Parkinson (1pt) 21.5.1983
The first ascent: The truth!
Joyce Parkinson was my non-climbing girlfriend who I dragged in to belay me. One of the wires on the lower crack fell out and was obstructing her belay device. She called up "Can I take this metal thing off, it's getting all tangled?" I paniced , thinking she meant the stitch plate, clipped into a peg to look down and coach her. I declared this as a rest point. At the time I should really have lowered off and called it a yo-yo but the pitch really was at my limit. Next week I took Paul to show him my wonderful new route. He climbed up to below the top overhang but could'nt clip the peg. He lowered off I climbed up and clipped the peg, then Paul led it.
So the true first ascent would really be the third ascent, which was probably me anyway. It was a time of change. Although The Jim Grin was climbed as a trad route it was really one of the first sport routes and an early example of the red pointing ethic.
I had hoped that someone would have come along and eliminated the pegs and threads to make a better ascent rather than add six bolts and make a worse ascent! I suppose it's becoming a polished horror now.
Mike Raine - 20/Feb/02
Still a great route, and the 'polished horror' Mike feared has defnitely not materialised - the holds are generally too big for the polish to matter!
Paul Giddings - 15/May/08
Now very well bolted, and a bit polished, and all the better for it. Very good jug-hauling with a slightly shocking finish. The Barguest is it's equal I think.
Fiend - 10/Jul/09
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