Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
20m. Beware the Barguest, especially if you havenâ€™t got a wire for the flake above the small cave. Worth 7a if the wire is in place. The original line finished via a traverse out right but it is now normal to finish direct.
The direct finish to belay of Jim Grin is 7a; you never see chalk on the traverse anymore the original line is virtually redundant.
I don't think the original finish should be considered redundant. I did it again last week as the finish of Sweet Nothings and think it's a superb piece of climbing on the most solid rock on the crag. Sweet Nothings is now a total clip-up at 7a but the final traverse is a bit run out!
Martin is right, why have an arbitrary traverse when you can have a great direct version - and the finishing move is rather good indeed. Good fun route, as good as Jim Grin for sure.
Easier than the Barguest Direct certainly, but the traverse adds to the climbing superbly - definately not 'arbitary'. The direct has a couple of good moves and can be used as an easier finish to the Jim Grin, probably still coming in at F7a.